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RB crank collar
TECH. STEP by STEP....
Our crank
collars are machined from hi quality steel
with an internal bore finish accurate to within .00002
in. to ensure good surface contact
after fitting .Below is a detailed walkthrough to help and
ensure the collar gets fitted correctly.
1.Machine crankshaft snout area down to required size using an
automotive crankshaft grinder to give as smooth a finish as possible. The
collar needs to have an exact .002 thou interference fit to the machined area. A
good crank grinder operator can give you this fit as they are comfortable with
measuring that exact.

2. Warm the collar to a light straw colour

3. Knock the collar on very quickly with a suitable driver
,oiling the internal bore, and make sure to line up the flat drive with the
original factory position directly in line with the rod journal.
4.Once cooled the 1/4 unc grub screws can be fitted in the
position as pictured above. The screws are fitted here because the grub screw
will often protrude into the internal bore of the balancer bolt. Care must be
taken to ensure the balancer bolt does not push on the grub screws as this will
create instant oil pump failure.The 2jz toyota engine has a splined collar
interference fitted to its crankshaft, it does not run grub screws and relies on
the interference. However not having seen any 2j collars spinning we still
prefer to fit 2 grub screws to each collar for added insurance.
OUR CRANK COLLARS CAN BE PURCHASED FROM THE 'nissan' section in
'engine parts'.... bulk workshop buy deals offered............
Or purchase one of our exchange prepped cranks with collar
fitted.............. found in the 'nissan' section of 'engine
parts'.....................
RB oil restrictors
We manufacture many different
combinations of oil restrictors for the RB, CA and SR engines. The benefit of
them is to restrict the oil flow to the top end ensuring the sump has as
much oil in it as possible to prevent oil starvation to the bottom
end. Our restrictor sizes and combinations are a decision made up of
hundreds of hours testing on track and street cars. Use these combos below and
please state when ordering what engine etc you have.
1. RB20 RB25 HYDRAULIC
HEAD 2x 1.3mm restrictors
2. RB30/25 head
HYDRAULIC 2X 1.3mm
restrictors
3. RB30/25 NEO solid lifter
head 1x 1.3mm 1x
blockoff
4. GTR RB26 ALL solid
lifter 1x
1.3mm 1x blockoff
5. CA 18
hydraulic 1x
1.5mm restrictor
6. SR 20
hydraulic 1x
1.5 mm restrictor
7. CA and SR solid lifter
conversion 1x 1.3mm
restrictor
8. RB25
NEO 1x
1.3mm 1x blockoff
9. RB30 single
cam
2x 1.3mm restrictors
Fitting...........simply knock
existing restrictor down into hole and fit our restrictors on top. Lightly peen
over around the edge of block surface....
Can be purchased from 'nissan' section
of 'engine parts' area............
OIL RESTRICTOR FITTING
INSTRUCTIONS

Tap original factory
restrictor down into hole until seated it will go down approx 10mm

Slightly deburr top of
hole

Knock in new restrictor with punch no more than 1mm smaller
than restrictor,knock in until 1mm below surface

Gently peen surface of block around
edge of restrictor to ensure it doesnt lift under pressure.
oil pump failure RB engines.....

Over the past few years
there has been a hell of a lot of confusion as to why the RB engine suffers from
oil pump breakage. Some interesting reading on some forums recently provided all
the causes known to man .Some even threatening to sue nissan for their NEW N1
pump breaking !!!.
Basically the nissan
factory RB pump , and N1, therefore is good for and designed for a factory
engine . At the factory rpm limits there is never an issue.
Lets look at a CA and an
SR engines oil pump design . Identical to an RB pump in material ,design and
strength. I have never heard of an oil pump failure in any CA or SR at any rpm
!!!!! Consequently the difference being at high rpm the 4 cylinder engine is
alot friendlier with crankshaft harmonics. Therefore i directly relate the RB
pump problems to a high rpm crank harmonics issue where the front of the crank
snout is whipping and buzzing crazily and what,s the weakest link? the
driven oil pump gear. Its thickness in material from the drive flat to the root
of the geartooth is physically not strong enough to tolerate the inline sixes
inbuilt harmonic problems. Along with the gears construction of sintered iron is
not a unit likeable to the high rpm situations most often in these
engines.
Pump breakage usually
occurs over 7500rpm. We rate the factory and N1 pumps good to 7500
rpm after that the only pump that will live is the TOMEI oil pump. The gear
quality being chrome moly is a superior material along with the brute physical
strength of the gear to driveflat dimension. In some combinations of
turbocharger and engine setup the engine will rev so fast through its harmonic
stages that it creates an even more severe harmonic problem where harmonic
balancers can be literally thrown off the crank snout. The long stroke rb30 is
not a favorite for high revs nor when its combination allows it to pass through
its harmonic stages fast. We consider for extended rpm and rev
limiter use in these combos to favor the use of an rb26 crank as maximum
stroke. These harmonic problems can be helped
by
1. high quality
crankshaft balance
2. fitting of a ROSS
drift balancer which will help dampen the harmonics and provide extra
insurance.
One thing you can be
assured of is that if you have oil pump issues you know that youre RB is revving
hard and fast and is a good sign ,so to speak, of a good performing engine. We
often hear of 'my mates 300rwkw RB with an N1 pump that hasnt broken'
,,, these cars are often
street cars or big number dyno queens that seldom see extended high rpm
periods and do not pass through the harmonic periods fast as drifting and
track cars do.
Also its not commonly the
rpm,s that are the issue it is how quick the engine
goes through its harmonic
periods. An engine that revs very fast will most often be a candidate for oil
pump gear breakage and harmonic related breakages. Of course we recommend ,as
would most builders,a dry sump style oiling setup in any race car, but in
keeping with peoples budjets and their affordabilities we have to do the best
with what we have..
The stroke/rod length and
rotating weight of the 20/25 and 26 engine is perfect for excess of 9000rpm. The
RB30 stroke length when exceeding 7500rpm is a disaster waiting to happen. Its
stroke /rod length is not tolerent to 7500 and upwards rpm so any modifications
made to help this is in the best interest of the customer and at his/her own
risk when exceeding approx 7500rpm...
OUR BILLET RB oil pumps are
currently in production for release next year, they have the strongest gears and
a full spline drive collar, external regulator and will come with a lifetime
garuantee against breakage when used on 20/25 and 26 engines ..
The old motto is ... ' better
to spend $1800 on an oil pump than build 3 bottom
ends'..................................
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